Featured Project:
A deck is the ideal way to expand your living space and enhance your entire property. For a fraction of the cost of building an indoor room, decks provide entertainment space and three-season living. Not only can the addition of a new deck increase the enjoyment that you get from your home, it can also increase the resale value. Only your imagination and your comfort level with doing it yourself limit your deck design.
TIM-BR Tip:
Sketch your rough plan out on graph paper. Include details like measurements, landscape obstacles, stair locations, multiple levels, and deck board orientation to the house (parallel, perpendicular or diagonal).
- Deck Boards – form the surface of the deck and are nailed or screwed to the joists.
- Joists – run lengthwise from beam to beam and support the decking. Joists can be nailed or attached with joist hangers. Place joists a maximum of 16” apart from centre to centre.
- Railing – runs around the perimeter of the deck to provide safety and security. Many styles are available to give your deck a unique appearance.
- Ledger – attaches the deck to the house. The ledger must be securely fastened. Many areas have specific regulations on how the ledger must be attached. Check with a building expert or code official.
- Deck Posts – support the weight of the deck and are anchored to the ground with concrete-filled post holes, deck spikes or pre-cast footings.
- Beams – attach to the posts and support the joists. Beams can be nailed or attached to the posts with framing angles or other hardware.
- Stairs – connect different levels of the deck or with the ground. Pre-cut stair stringers are a convenient option. Ready-to-install handrails and balusters are also available and an important safety component.
Before you Start
Consider the following location and design factors:
Air Currents – Allow for flow of gentle breezes but locate to block out prevailing winds.
Home Access – Where will your deck connect to your home? If you do a lot of entertaining and cooking, a location adjoining the kitchen is ideal.
View – do you want to highlight a great view or perhaps de-emphasize a poor one?
Sunlight – how much sunlight do you desire? Or do you prefer a shaded retreat?
Uses – What will you use the deck for?
- How many people should it accommodate?
- How much seating is required?
- How much space is required for BBQ’s and other equipment?
Material – Choose the material that best suits your budget and personal taste.
Western Red Cedar
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Pressure Treated
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Composite
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At TIM-BR MART we can help you every step of the way from planning through construction to completion. We even offer financing. Bring us your ideas and we’ll help you build the deck you dream about.
10 STEPS TO A NEW DECK
*The following is for guidance purposes only. Consult a professional before beginning any project.
Step 1
Check the local bylaws. You may require a permit and your deck plan to be approved before construction. Local building codes will also have specific requirements for railing height, footing types, ledger attachment and other safety regulations.
Step 2
The simplest deck designs are rectangular. Mark off your deck location using string and batter boards. To quickly determine if your rectangular layout is square, measure both diagonals. If the measurements match, the layout is square. Adjust the corners as needed until the measurements match. To check a single corner, use the 3-4-5 method. Measure along one side three feet, along a perpendicular side four feet, then measure the diagonal formed between these two spots. If it measures five feet, the corner is square.
Step 3
Prepare the ground under the deck by removing the sod. Prepare an area slightly larger than the dimensions of your deck. Slope the ground away from the house a minimum of 1” every 15 feet to provide drainage. Consider covering the area with polyethylene weed block that allows water to seep through but will not permit weeds to grow.
Step 4
Place the ledger. The height of the ledger should be approximately 1” below the threshold of the entrance to your house. The ledger is typically a 2 x 6 cut to the appropriate length. Ensure that it is level and secured to the house with 1/2” lag screws that are long enough to penetrate at least 3” into the stud. Use two lag screws at each end, and one at each wall stud in between. Install flashing above the ledger to shed water, or space the ledger slightly away from the wall using washers. As a rule, the length of the ledger should be at least three inches greater than the width of the deck framing. The decking will overhang the extra ledger length and keep it hidden. Decks that are not attached to the house do not require a ledger.
Step 5
Dig footings and set the posts. From the measurements in your deck plan, determine the location of your deck posts and mark these points. Typically deck posts are spaced between four and six feet apart. The post holes should be at least 4’ deep and 12” wide for a 4 x 6 post. The holes must be deeper than the maximum frost penetration in your area. Check with local authorities for details. When anchoring posts in the ground, fill the hole with at least 6” of gravel for drainage, and then place the post ensuring that it is plum and square with the other posts. Fill the hole with concrete and tamp to ensure that it sets properly. Above ground concrete deck footings or deck spikes can be also be used as convenient alternatives to anchoring posts in the ground. Talk to your local TIM-BR MART professional about your best option. Once the concrete sets, run a mason’s line from the top of the ledger to each post and use a line level to mark them for cutting. The height of the post should be equal to the height of the ledger minus the depth of the beam that will be set on it.
Step 6
Attach the beams. Beams consist of two 2 x 8’s or 2 x 10’s nailed or screwed together at 12 or 16-inch intervals using 3-inch galvanized nails or 1-1/2” screws. The easiest way to attach the beams to the posts is with special framing angles or post cap hardware. Beams can also be attached by notching the posts on either side, or attaching a single 2 x 8 or 10 to each side of the post and securing them with carriage bolts through pre-drilled holes.
Step 7
Joists are most typically 2 x 6, 2 x 8 or 2 x 10 inches. The project advisor at your local TIM-BR MART can recommend the appropriate sizes for your specific plan. On both the beams and the ledger mark the joist locations either 16 or 24” on-centre depending on the deck design. Attach them to the beam by toe nailing with 3-1/2” nails or framing connectors and 1-1/2” nails or screws. Where the joists tie into a ledger or beam at the same height, use joist hangers. Once all joists are in place, mark and cut the ends to ensure a uniform edge. Choose your joists carefully, select the straightest boards and cut off any cracked ends. Always install joists crown side up.
Step 8
Nail or screw the decking boards to the joists. Carefully inspect each board ensuring that the best side faces up. Use a nail as a guide to space each board a minimum of 1/16” to a maximum of 1/8” apart to allow for shrinkage and proper drainage. Some materials like pressure treated decking can be placed flush with each other. Natural shrinkage will create the proper spacing. Boards can be secured with nails, screws or deck fasteners, but no matter what fastener you choose, it must be hot-dipped, galvanized or stainless steel to resist the weather and rusting. Use two fasteners per support joist for 2 x 6 deck boards and three per joist for anything larger. To avoid splitting, predrill nail holes near the ends or edges of each board.
Step 9
Attach the header. Cut the header to exactly the same dimensions as the ledger. Lift the header into place so it is level with and covering the exposed ends of the joists. Secure the header to the joists with weatherized nails or deck screws.
Step 10
Finish your deck with the appropriate protectant, stain or paint. Consult your local TIM-BR MART professional for the correct deck-finishing product for your needs.
ADDING STAIRS & RAILINGS
Stairs are almost always required unless your deck is set on the ground. Once again, local building codes will dictate what specifications your stairs must meet. Pre-manufactured stringers make installing stairs easy. They are generally available in three steps, for an elevation of 20”; four steps for an elevation of 26”; and five steps, for an elevation of 32”. Stairs with more than three steps may require posts at the base and the top for a handrail. Check your local building code or talk to a TIM-BR MART professional. Cut risers to fit the riser notch exactly and nail in place with 3” weatherproofed nails. Cut treads from the same boards used for the decking. Allow a 1” overhang in the front and 1/8” spacing between boards for drainage. Ensure that the stairs are securely fastened to the top deck header or one of the end joists with power driven nails or screws. Ensure that the bottom of the stairs sits snugly on a landing pad made of concrete, brick, or level gravel. If stairs are in direct contact with the ground, they should be made of pressure-treated lumber.
Railings are the most visible part of your deck and an important safety component. Most areas have specific code requirements regarding railings. Usually, decks that are more than 30” above the ground require a railing. The minimum height requirement is generally 36”, though many people prefer the railing to be higher. Railings should also be designed to withstand 200 pounds of downward and outward force.
It is critical that you check and follow your local building code. Spacing between balusters along the rail is also usually limited to no more than six inches to protect small children from potential injury. Codes may also stipulate the type and size of fasteners to be used. Bolts are stronger than nails and screws, and in many areas are the only allowable option. 4 x 4’s make excellent railing posts and should be spaced a maximum of six feet apart. Rails should be constructed with 2 x 4’s and balusters with 2 x 2’s at the very minimum.
TIM-BR Tip:
Decks can be nailed, screwed or attached using specially designed hangers and fasteners. No matter what you use they must be hot-dipped galvanized or made of a rustproof material to withstand the elements.
Tools and materials available at your local TIM-BR MART
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Materials List
- Posts – 4 x 6
- Beams – 4 x 6 or doubled 2 x 6
- Joists – 2 x 6
- Ledger, Header and Fascia – 2 x 6
- Deck Boards – 2 x 6
- Stairs – Pre-cut stringers; 2 x 6 treads
- Railings – 4 x 4 posts; 2 x 4 rails;
- 2 x 2 balusters
- Concrete mix
- Form tubes, pre-cast footings or deck spikes
- 16d framing nails
- 2-1/2” galvanized screws (decking)
- Post connectors
- Ledger flashing
- Weed block material
- Joist hangers
- 1/2” lag screws
- Carriage bolts (if bolting beams to posts)
- Deck stain, protectant or other finish
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